Boat Cruise On Kazinga Channel at Queen Elizabeth National Park: Day 7 Of My 11 Day Tour Of Uganda

Lunching at Tembo Canteen was outstanding; there were scores of cheap, tasty cuisines and cool beers within spectacular lake view surroundings; but only a non Ugandan would stand the marabou stock being in close proximity.

A simple "go away" gesture wouldn't work; they were extremely determined to get a piece of the pie, especially the leftover food by the dump site.

Perfectly seasoned and fried Tilapia fish, rice with Kachumbali (raw, chopped onions and tomatoes) on the side were a perfect fit for lunch.

The next itinerary on the day's agenda was the "boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel."

After lunch, the group and I, led by the tour guide, headed for "Mweya safari lodge" where the boat cruise tickets were to be purchased.

The scenic view at Mweya safari lodge was breathtaking; surrounded by the Rwenzori mountains, to the East lay the great rift valley hills: spaced from the Rwenzori, by the rambling Kazinga Channel.

After gawking at the beautiful surrounding, the group and I arrived at "Mweya Information Center." Lots of dried up, preserved carcasses of birds and animals were on display.

The center was so busy and helpful; we acquired some maps and purchased tickets for the 10-seater "Sunbird" ferryboat; that came with experienced guides and crew, well equipped with necessary safety tools and above all comfortable.

I was rapturous, I had my binoculars set, the life vest on and so ready! My minimal aquaphobia, like everyone else! was of no issue; adventure was on my mind.

At first, it was convenient to presume that cruising on the Kazinga Channel waters was a smooth sail. But it was a windy evening and the waters were a bit wavy!

The wide Kazinga channel was 32 kilometers long, linking the 2000 sq km Lake Edward on the West, to the 250 sq km Lake George on the East.

Sailing on the wavy waters was a once in a life time safari experience. 

I wasn't sure why the area was dubbed the Crocodile hub until a bask of approximately 6 meters long, rough skinned Nile crocodiles sunbathing on the banks came into view.

Riparian vegetation along the Kazinga channel banks were perfect habitat for the over 100 water bird species, Like; 

The white headed; dark taloned, beaked, and eyed African Fish eagle. With wingspans of approximately 6 ft, and yellow faces, hunting for prey.

The white, long legged Spoonbill; swinging its bill from side to side in the waters in an effort to catch food.

A pair of Goliath herons that flew by; with their heads, faces, backs and neck sides of a medium reddish shade of brown and chins, throats, and upper breasts all white.

And lots more...

The Epic voyage had the group and I marveling at the bloat of hippos taking a dip in the cool Kazinga Waters.

Shortly after the hippos, the majestic elephants graced our view. As they took turns to sling mad all over their bodies using their long, flexible trunks.

When we made it to the other end, the experience was worthy the pay. 

In retrospection, the boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel was one of a kind.

After the boat cruise, the group and I turned back and headed for "Simba Safari Camp for dinner. Along the channel tracks, all eyes were glued to the outside in hopes of sighting the over advertised "Tree Climbing Lions", the prize possessions of Queen Elizabeth National Park.

But had no luck that evening... 

I hoped it would be next on the trail...

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Through Kabatoro Gate On A Crater Lakes Tour, Queen Elizabeth National Park: Day 7 Of My 11 Day Ugandan Tour

The remnants of the violent volcanic activity at Queen Elizabeth National park, were astonishing.

Ferocious volcanic eruptions, some 8000 - 10,000 years ago, released massive amounts of ashes widely far from their vents; creating basin-like features referred to as "Craters."

Through Kabatoro gate, on a 27 kilometer drive to the Queen's Pavilion, was scattered 72 huge craters. Located in the north western region of Queen Elizabeth N.P, the gate was the starting point to the crater lakes tour.

The 3 hour drive exposed the group and I to the 3 main crater fields at Queen Elizabeth N.P, which were;

Katwe Explosion Craters:

These were in the northern part of the "Mweya Peninsula" with lake Katwe being the main one.

Lake Katwe, of approximately 3,270 feet depth, was a hub for a monolithic salt mining operation due to its saline waters.

During the dry seasons, evaporation led to the concentration of the salt solution forming salt rocks which were collected, filtered and made into "Table salt." From Pan-like compartments built on the edge of the lake.

The salt extraction process was spectacular to observe, some miners tirelessly cracking the sodium chloride rocks and others carrying sacks of the shattered rocks.

This experience was greatly amplified by the panorama of the flocks of the flame-colored, long legged flamingos, sorting out algae at the lake.

There were some wide mouth opening, hairless bodied and large sized hippos too.

Bunyaruguru Crater Field:

Recognized by the worldwide Volcano discovery, this was the next go to.

Also called the "Kichwamba Crater field", this area had up to 20 craters containing both saline and fresh waters.

They were located on the western side of Queen Elizabeth N.P in the Kichwamba escarpment of the western Rift valley. Most of these were filled with thickets of small trees and bushy grasslands, except for Lake Nkugute that was attractively filled with water and easily spotted if traveling along the Kasese - Mbarara highway.

Ndali-Kasenda Crater Field:

A foot trail was encouraged at this crater field. It was a 10 kilometre long stretch of closely packed craters.

A quick swim was discouraged as most of these craters contained toxic greenish waters and emitted smelly sulphuric fumes, which emanated from beneath.

Lakes like Nkuruba, Lyantonde, Nyabikere, among others constituted the crater field.

This mid morning tour climaxed at the Queen's Pavilion, a small thatched hut with a magnificent view of most the park's land.

Brunch was served...

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Bird Watching at Katunguru Bridge Area In Queen Elizabeth National Park: Uganda Tour, Day 7

Katunguru bridge, connecting Lakes Edward and George on the Kazinga channel, the area below the bridge at Queen Elizabeth National park was a heavily swampy zone, and a stronghold of bird life.

Numerous bird species accorded this papyrus swamp their attention, with inhabitancy flight after flight. To seek sanctuary, countless birds flocked the swamp and nested.

They had no technology, just their ant-like capacity for hard work; their wings, spectacular eye sight and strong beaks.

How many sticks and straws they collected can never be calculated.

By 7 O'clock in the morning, I was already awake and having breakfast at Simba Safari camp. Readying myself for the morning itinerary, which comprised of a birding safari at the birds' renowned habitat in Queen Elizabeth N.P; the Katunguru area.

My group mates and I were psyched...

The ranger came, the others and I took up seats on the tour truck, and drove to the swamp.

Along the Katunguru channel tracks, lots of natural vegetation, of savannah grasslands and indigenous trees graced our views.

The surreal-ness of the area, when we finally got there, took my breath way. The papyrus and shrub dominated wetland housed innumerable birds and added to my human wonder of nature.

These included:

The Gull-billed tern: with a distinctive short, thick gull-like bill, broad wings and long legs. A whitish grey underparts and a black cap; black legs and bill.

The pink-backed Pelican: that had a whitish grey plumage and a pinkish hue on the back, as the name suggested; swallowing a fish.

The papyrus Gonolek: a medium sized bush-shrike with a dull yellow crown; the upper parts, wings, tail and head black, apart from a broad white bar on the wings. A crimson breast and upper belly while the lower belly whitish.

I could only hope it was scouting for insects like the beetles and flies, or snails as it singly lurked among the papyrus.

Many, many more bird species could be sighted.

The Katunguru bridge area was perfect for the birding safari experience; 

The day's trail had just started...

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An Evening game drive through the Kisenyi Plains at Queen Elizabeth National Park: Day 6 Of My 11 Day Tour Of Uganda

An hour and half at Simba Safari Camp, after my arrival, was perfect rest; more so the heavy brunch I feasted on.

I settled in and decompressed perfectly well, on the comfy seats in the lounge area and was still posted when someone started calling out to the guests.

It was game drive time;

"It's time, sir." Said a deep voice. I stood up, slid on my green travel backpack and headed to the gathering of 3 outside.

The man had an army green uniform on;

"It's time for the evening game drive." Said the green clad game ranger.

"What's in store for us! I'm so pumped." Said one of the group members, now excited and organising herself.

"It's going to be a 2-3 hour drive through the Kasenyi plains, where we'll get a chance to see some of the wild life that we have."

"Sort of an orientation to Queen Elizabeth national park, so come on let's head out." Replied the officer.

"Are we all set, shall we!" The officer climbed abode the driver's seat of the 8-seater, four-wheel drive tour truck, and we all followed tout de suite.

Groups of 6 maximum are allowed, and there were at that time only 4 members. I made the fifth, but the number would go back to 4 the following day when one of us fell sick.

Kasenyi plains were a vast Savannah; perfect setting for a classic African Safari experience.

I descried some medium-sized black warthogs; with large heads adorned with a pair tusks each, a mane down the spine, sparse hairs covered their bodies and long tails that ended with tufts of hair, grazing on grasses and roots with their front feet bent backwards.

8 minutes, on constantly spinning wheels, a herd of Uganda kobs came in view. These were reddish brown in colour and sturdily built.

"Only the males have the lyre-shaped horns." Said the officer as he pointed out to the herd. 

They had a white patch on their throats, white muzzles, eye rings and  inner ears. The belly and inside of the legs also white, while the front legs were black. They calmed fed on grasses and reeds.

Yet so unbothered by their large numbers were a pair of Guinea fowls as they skittered through the grasslands; and so neatly packed were their grey spotted plumage.

These seed and sometimes insect eating had featherless heads and majestically foraged within the herds dung and the surrounding understory.

There were approximately 12 dark grey elephants in a herd that we came across after about 30 minute drive away from the kobs.

The small herd of these enormous elephants had 2 calves a few months old with them. 

The elephants had gigantic ears and concave backs, long trunks, massive legs and huge tusks; wrinkled skin and slopping abdomen.

Most used their trunks to grasp grass from the ground and bring it to their mouths.

About 2 and half hours driving through the Kasenyi plains, Queen Elizabeth national park had made a memorable first impression.

More of her jewels were to lust for on this Afro foot trail...

When the drive time was up, we drove back to Simba Safari Camp and called it a day. 

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Traveling to Queen Elizabeth National Park, Lodging At Simba Safari Camp: Day 6 Of My 11 Day Tour Of Uganda

There was no reason to end the trail at that, because I had experienced forest walks, Chimpanzee tracking and bird watching, but Uganda, and Africa at large, still had more, a lot more to offer.

The third time I took a bus, the Link Bus, from Fort Portal City heading to Kasese District, it was a fair experience compared to the first two times, mostly due to the shortness of the trip.

Kasese town, located North of Lake George in western region of Uganda, was only 1 hour and a minute away; a distance of approximately 93 kilometers.

On arrival to Kasese town, at the Bus terminal I followed a familiar routine;  I collected my travel bags from the Bus' luggage cabin, grabbed a quick refreshment juice from the traders and searched for the fastest mode of transport from the Town to Queen Elizabeth National Park.

I met a special hire taxi operator at their stage on one of the commercial streets in Kasese town, negotiated the transport fares and took the drive.

37 minutes later, I was at Simba Safari Camp which would go on to be my abode for the next couple of days while traversing Queen Elizabeth national park.

The general presumption was that I would relive the moments I had while I lodged at the Kyaninga lodge; I was wrong!

None of the reviews that I perused through, had clearly expressed the beauty of "Simba Safari Camp"

At the camp, one side faced the scenic crater lakes and plains of Queen Elizabeth national park while the other, the peaks of the Rwenzori mountain ranges stood out against the skyline.

Circling around the gorgeous terrain, there was an extensive lounge, a restaurant serving excellent continental dishes and a well stocked bar.

When I finally came around to making conversation, after several minutes of gaping at the surrounding beauty, one of the staff invited me to plant a tree that would be nourished and, would carry my name forever.

This was mainly done for conservation purposes and to foster a nature loving mentality in the guests.

"We have several rooms available." Said the beautiful lady at the reception when I approached the desk.

Going through the brochure, guest accommodation comprised of double rooms, all ensuite.

Below beyond the first segment, dormitory rooms where listed, of 3, 5 and 10 occupance; with double decker beds and all with shared bathroom facilities.

Traveling on a budget, I moved in for a 3 occupant dormitory room and adjacent to the room, was a common shower and toilet block.

The room had a whitish grey wall fan, wood brown lounge seat, a veranda with canvas seats and a clothing rack. A mosquito net fitted bed.

At Simba Safari camp, the 3-star restaurant was to offer delicious and affordable meals with open air rest. The modern well stocked bar offered refreshment of cold sodas and beer.

A tea wake up call was arranged between the restaurant staff and I, where a cup would be served at my veranda every morning throughout my stay at the camp, which would be a splendid start to my morning drives.

This was the closest lodge in to Queen Elizabeth national park's jewels...

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Kasenda Crater Lakes and Mahoma Falls Tour, Kabarole District: Day 5 Of My 11 Day Tour of Uganda

With the Chimpanzee tracking done, bird watching, nature hiking and having had comfy accommodation, I hadn't had enough of the beauty of Kabarole District in Western Uganda.

Kibale National park and Bigodi wetland sanctuary were breathtaking, but more scenically stunning were the Kasenda crater lakes, near Fort Portal City.

Several guided hikes available offered the opportunity to observe the magnificent volcanic features.

Filled with steep slopes of fertile volcanic soils, covered with thick vegetation and some rocky patches, the hike was quite a challenge.

The view atop, though, was applaudable; a view of the clear crater lake waters and the aquatic life, the approximately 16,762 ft tall, snowcapped Rwenzori ranges; the 296 sq mile, evergreen Kibale forest; the 100 m deep chasm called Kichwamba escarpment, and Lake George.

Kasenda crater lakes, as the name suggested, situated in Kasenda county, Kabarole District, were as many as 12 lakes in the territory.

Gorgeous, surrounded by steep crater rims; Nyinambuga lake was the most popular one since its photograph adorns the Ugandan Twenty thousand shillings note. 

With the highlight of the tour, that commanded undivided attention, being the Mahoma Falls located in Kabata Village.

I walked to the cascading waters of the fall, threw down my travel backpack, and stood below for a light shower.

The tour guide, my group mates and I marveled at the wonder. This crater lakes tour was the perfect ending to the safari to Kabarole district.

The Afro foot-trail had to continue...

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Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary (Fort Portal), Swamp Walk, Bird and Butterfly Watching: Day 4 Of My 11 Day Of Uganda

Most of the world knows Fort Portal City in Western Uganda, as home to the Kibale national park, a mecca for Chimpanzee tracking and nature hiking.

But it's also home to a community based Swamp project called "Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary." On any nature reserve that size, there's always lots of biodiversity and natural vegetation.

I had spent the previous day at Kibale national park, Chimpanzee tracking and nature hiking. Spotted several of the chimps and, some of the nearly extinct tree species.

The nature walk tour guide looked jovial and was good at imparting knowledge on the animals and vegetation at Kibale national park. 

"Away from the park, lies a beautiful, little place, not far, that would be amazing for bird and butterfly lovers." Said the guide.

The guide, named Ben, would go on to sell us on the idea of visiting the sanctuary; and made plans to take us the following day.

Early in the morning, I packed my travel backpack, bid farewell to some of my former group mates who had opted out, and set off for the sanctuary.

6 Kilometers later, I walked down the ramp of the park's minibus and into the sweltering, sticky heat of the wetland sanctuary.

Coming out of the parking area, Ben the guide, gave us a brief history of the sanctuary and the origin of the its name.

"Bigodi" a Rutooro word derived from "kugodya", loosely translated as 'to walk wearily.'

The locals came up with the name because different people who would walk to the wetland back then, would reach extremely tired, and therefore had to rest.

Bigodi Swamp was home to different wild animals that I easily spotted with the help of the expert, Ben the guide. Animals like; the medium sized antelope called " Sitatunga", with facial markings as well as several stripes and spots all over it body.

A dark brown bush pig, endowed with a blunt, muscular snouts; small eyes, pointed ears and buckled toes. 

The Blue monkey, though unnoticeably blue, with little hair on its face, a blackish cap, feet and front legs.

Some baboons, that had long, dog-like muzzles; heavy, powerful jaws, close-set eyes, and hairless bums.

I had never seen such a kaleidoscope of butterflies before a visit to Bigodi wetland sanctuary. There was indeed lots of butterflies, rendering the swamp a haven for lepidopterist (zoologists that study butterflies).

This was all heavily vegetated area and teemed with lots of water. A perfect habitat for aquatic like Otters.

When I arrived at the sanctuary, I received a pair of army green gumboots and binoculars, which helped in the nature walk and viewing.

I threw my travel backpack once again over my shoulder, and asked for directions to the bird zones in the area. 

Along the board walk trail and viewing platforms, Ben the guide, showed us some of the bird species in the area, explaining their unique characters.

Amongst a population of over 138 bird species, I laid gaze upon the brown chested alethe, black bee-eater, purple breasted sunbirds, weaver birds, e.t.c

So beautiful was the sanctuary, so impressive were the plant and animal life, and such a lucrative protectorate to the surrounding community it was.

A safari to Bigodi wetland sanctuary was more than just an adventure...

My Afro Travels continued...

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