7 Awing Lessons I Learnt From Traveling On My Tour Of Uganda: Day 11

Eleven days into my first tour, ever! Several things had happened; I had hiked through forests, studied birds and, observed chimpanzees and elephants, among others.

The experiences came from the different locales I visited. In retrospection, while on the bus heading back home, I explicated a list of some of the lessons I learnt while traveling.

Lessons learnt while on the road:

√ To leave my comfort zone and try new things:

If I wanted to boom in life, I had to get out of my comfort zone and embrace the unknown.

Setting off to travel, I left behind all that was familiar; my tiny bedroom, that had become "my self-made" cell, my addictions, my family and all that I regarded as the norm; and took on a world of new things.

The lesson usually was through new cultures like the tenacity of the Bakiga or the hospitality of the Batooro... New friends and foods.

All these sparked excitement, or even fear but never boredom.

√ To be patient:

Whether it was facing the long, uncomfortable bus rides, or the tiresome forest hikes, I came across several small foilings. 

These defeats were actually priceless lessons in patience. In my travels, I managed to overcome them and bred resilience.

At the end of my Ugandan tour, I felt confidently capable of contending with almost anything.

√ To be humble: 

For a traveler humility is unavoidable... I quickly discovered how small my footprint was in this gigantic world. 

Try measuring up your footprint to that of an elephant or hippo.

I encountered kindness and generosity from total strangers while on the road. 

Several kind souls offered guidance when I was lost. One, I vividly remember, offered me a free meal when my cash was tapped out.

I came to a realization of how lucky I was and how much I took for granted.

√ I learnt to never take nature for granted:

Throughout most of my tour, I explored natural beauty and promptly learnt to appreciate every natural wonder.

The beautiful, evergreen Kibale forest, the steel slopes of the Rwenzori mountains or the meandering Kazinga channel and all her jewels.

Nature in all her majesty!

√ To enjoy experiences over things:

I worked my way through some of Uganda's tourist attractions, formed strong bonds with people, learnt new  skills like how to carefully track a Rhino, and created lasting memories.

And I needed very little to be happy! A pair of boots, a cap, binoculars but above all my experiences!

√ I learnt how to make friends with strangers:

Be it at Kibale forest National park or at Mweya Information center; meeting fellow travelers or exchanging stories with locals, I opened up myself to world of human interaction.

I encountered plenty of people, who were open to chatting.

And last but not least,

√ You never stop learning:

"Learning keeps us young and travel is the best teacher of all."

I explored forests and studied lots of birds among other activities; my Ugandan tour inspired a sense of wonder and discovery... 

And there still is an entire world of things to do and people to meet.

All throughout my travels I never stopped learning.

Do you travel?

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Rhino Trekking At Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary: Day 10 of My 11 Day Ugandan Tour

Lunch had been had at the pristine sanctuary's Restaurant and the meal was divine. Coupled with the serene surroundings, the whole experience was perfect.

The decision was made that the only itinerary best suited for the rest of such a beautiful day was "Rhino trekking."

Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, it's known, is the only place in the pearl of Africa, Uganda, that the Southern white rhinos call home.

To find that spot, to track through the bushes, to lay gaze upon the beautiful, horned beasts - that was the aim and, if it was achieved, was a price beyond rubies.

In fact, the sanctuary gazetted 7000 hectares of land as habitat to the rhinos, and this was well thought.

Every time we, the travellers, purchased the $50 rhino tracking permit, that was more money in the bank for Rhino Fund Uganda and Ugandan Wildlife Authority.

A well-trained ranger was handily available and that eased the bush track.

To drive at first was necessary to get closer to the Rhino zones. Having traveled without a personal car, my singular option was to team up with others and jointly hire the Rhino Fund Uganda's vehicle and driver.

On getting closer to the Rhino zones, the experienced ranger guided my comrades and I through the small, and the woody and stemmed shrubs, and grasslands; On foot! Chances of sighting the Rhinos were maximal.

To track hurriedly meant risking the agitation of the Rhinos and their retaliation.

The safest way was careful and gentle tracking, then remain stationary on coming in close range with the animal.

This was the expert advise as per the safety briefing the tour guide gave and adherence to it would keep us safe.

Once close to the Rhinos, the silenced cameras, binoculars, journals and pens came into play; but mostly the gaping!

These southern white rhinos were flat, broad mouthed and socially munching on the short, green grass; extremely large, with immense bodies, large heads, broad chests and short necks.

Two horns, the front horns being larger than the others, adorned each snout; 5 rhinos in total, in the "Crash" (group of Rhinos) the group and I came across.

They were slate grey in colour, with most of the body hairs on their tail bristles and ear fringes; and rather sparsely over the rest of their bodies.

These 7000 hectares not only offered rhino tracking opportunities. 

The reddish brown, sturdily built Uganda kobs, and the dark brown coloured Bushbucks were both dwellers and roamed through the daylight on land.

So did the Oribis, having long limbs and necks, sightly raised backs and yellowish brown coats. So dense on the grassland that the ground tremored with movement.

And even numerous were the waterbucks...

All these were breathtakingly awesome; most honour, however, went to the Rhinos, whose magnificence put the "Rhino" in Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary.

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Shoebill Trek, Canoeing in Lugogo Swamp At Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary: Day 10 Of My 11 Ugandan Tour

In the wild, a mere 10 kilometer stretch harbouring the essentials of water, food and shelter can seem like Heaven for wildlife.

Thus it was with Lugogo Swamp in Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. At 6 am, the Canoe ride on the swamp waters started; more, the cold of the outdoor camp got me up before 6, with ample time for the morning rituals.

Lugogo Swamp, a 10 kilometer wide wetland at the border of Ziwa Rhino sanctuary, catered to a battalion of animals; with over 300 bird species calling it safe haven.

Embracing that early morning cold paid off with the heavenly vista of the Sun rise. I had opted in for the early morning canoe ride specifically for that reason and was amazed by the panorama.

The Swamp was then churning out fog at masses a minute. An hour after setting sail, the voyagers and I, under the leadership of an experienced guide, navigated through shrubs and interposing thickets to locate the shoebill nests.

These, among other birds, called Lugogo wetland home. I, too, had earlier been enticed into the opportunity to sight these rare birds. 

And within two hours it was clear that once the rare shoebill storks came into view, they were spectacular.

These very large stork-like birds, deriving their name from their enormous, bulbous, straw coloured bills, were tall with wingspans of approximately 7 - 8ft.

They had dark coloured, fairly long legs, exceptional large feet that aided hunting in this aquatic vegetation.

Other easily spotted birds included:

The small chinspot batis: A rather Stout bird, with a black mask on its face, short white eye stripes and a grey cap.

The yellow eyes and, black legs and bill made this songbird extremely cute!

The Booted Eagle: A medium-sized bird of prey. Eagle like in shape with a wingspan of approximately 130 cm; having a mid-brown plumage and grey flight feathers.

Nesting up in the trees, in nests made of sticks and leaves.

The African Marsh Harrier: yellow eyed, adorned with a brown plumage, pale streaking on the head, breast and rufous on the thighs and belly.

This bird of prey was patched up in the trees with a stare that one could only deduce as a hunting stare.

And last but no least,

The Abdim's Stork: This black stork had red knees and feet, grey legs and bill and white underparts.

Its red facial skin in front of the eyes was striking. It was pecking at what I hoped to be caterpillars inside the bark of a tree; had a kind of sense for danger, like all birds do, for it kept  on taking note of our every position.

Lots of bird species could be sighted, and before anyone of us had reached his or her fill of bird watching, the tour guide had realized  that the allocated time was done and added a few extra.

The cool swamp waters were generally calm and the surrounding informatively enriching.

Being only 10 kilometer, this patch of Ziwa Rhino sanctuary was packed with wonder. For those 4 splendid hours, I had managed to do away with much of technology and returned to primal man.

Just a pair of binoculars, life vest, a book and pen; the wild and I.

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Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, Night Nature Walk: Day 9 of My 11 Day Uganda Tour

On day 9, I greatly unanticipated the long bus drive to my next destination; as was the only means of transportation my travel expenses permitted. I took it anyway for what was in store, I massively anticipated.

By 5 o'clock in the morning, I was up. I prepared, bid farewell to Queen Elizabeth National park, and started the 9 hour journey from Kasese district to Kampala, then to the Albertine region.

Along the Kampala - Gulu highway, in Nakasongola district, the outstanding Rhino signpost caught my attention. I branched off at Nakatoma trading center and headed to "Ziwa Rhino and Wildlife Ranch."

The Rhino sanctuary was established and funded by Rhino fund Uganda under the Uganda wildlife authority. The Ugandan government discovered a great source of tourism wealth with this special place. 

With the Rhinos none existent in all Ugandan national parks, the government of the republic of Uganda gazetted this site for the breeding and conservation of these magnificent wild animals.

There was no way of fighting Ziwa rhino sanctuary's call for any nature lover!

The sanctuary that's 14 years old, offered opportunities to take a gander at the Rhinos in their natural environment and lots of other exciting wildlife.

There was only one way to appreciate the existence of this sanctuary, that's to Pay it a visit...

One needed closed shoes, insect repellants, flashlight and trousers (long jeans) for the jaw-dropping activities at the sanctuary.

Camping outside was available, the perfect accommodation for one traveling on a budget. The immaculately clean camp site was adjacent to the sanctuary headquarters and wholly fenced.

The wealthy, exhibitionists, and look-at-mes had the private and shared indoor facilities.

Us, who opted for the outdoor camp, were the quiet, soft-spoken and self-contained personalities. We had to be very cool, possessed of icy nerves and almost immune to panic, slumbering on the outside in blue canvas tents.

By the time I arrived at the Rhino sanctuary, it was coming to 4 O'Clock in the evening and the only day's itinerary left was the "Nighttime nature Walk" that commenced at 8:30pm.

I paid the required dues; with some help, I pitched my tent on the neatly trimmed grass, surrounded by trees and headed to the restaurant for dinner, awaiting the night, nature walk.

The wait was worthy it, the guided nature walk experience of the nighttime sounds and sensations, unexpected and unpredictable nocturnal animals like the wild cats, bats, frogs and lots more; the dreamy scenes of fireflies, was spectacular.

Completely unknowing of what my comrades and I would bump into on that walk was unnerving, yet awesome within those 2 and half hours.

By 23:00pm, we came back to the camp site and called it a night. The rest of the night was characterized by chirping of crickets, and the occasional hoot of the Owl as I drifted off into the much needed slumber.

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Boat Cruise On Kazinga Channel at Queen Elizabeth National Park: Day 7 Of My 11 Day Tour Of Uganda

Lunching at Tembo Canteen was outstanding; there were scores of cheap, tasty cuisines and cool beers within spectacular lake view surroundings; but only a non Ugandan would stand the marabou stock being in close proximity.

A simple "go away" gesture wouldn't work; they were extremely determined to get a piece of the pie, especially the leftover food by the dump site.

Perfectly seasoned and fried Tilapia fish, rice with Kachumbali (raw, chopped onions and tomatoes) on the side were a perfect fit for lunch.

The next itinerary on the day's agenda was the "boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel."

After lunch, the group and I, led by the tour guide, headed for "Mweya safari lodge" where the boat cruise tickets were to be purchased.

The scenic view at Mweya safari lodge was breathtaking; surrounded by the Rwenzori mountains, to the East lay the great rift valley hills: spaced from the Rwenzori, by the rambling Kazinga Channel.

After gawking at the beautiful surrounding, the group and I arrived at "Mweya Information Center." Lots of dried up, preserved carcasses of birds and animals were on display.

The center was so busy and helpful; we acquired some maps and purchased tickets for the 10-seater "Sunbird" ferryboat; that came with experienced guides and crew, well equipped with necessary safety tools and above all comfortable.

I was rapturous, I had my binoculars set, the life vest on and so ready! My minimal aquaphobia, like everyone else! was of no issue; adventure was on my mind.

At first, it was convenient to presume that cruising on the Kazinga Channel waters was a smooth sail. But it was a windy evening and the waters were a bit wavy!

The wide Kazinga channel was 32 kilometers long, linking the 2000 sq km Lake Edward on the West, to the 250 sq km Lake George on the East.

Sailing on the wavy waters was a once in a life time safari experience. 

I wasn't sure why the area was dubbed the Crocodile hub until a bask of approximately 6 meters long, rough skinned Nile crocodiles sunbathing on the banks came into view.

Riparian vegetation along the Kazinga channel banks were perfect habitat for the over 100 water bird species, Like; 

The white headed; dark taloned, beaked, and eyed African Fish eagle. With wingspans of approximately 6 ft, and yellow faces, hunting for prey.

The white, long legged Spoonbill; swinging its bill from side to side in the waters in an effort to catch food.

A pair of Goliath herons that flew by; with their heads, faces, backs and neck sides of a medium reddish shade of brown and chins, throats, and upper breasts all white.

And lots more...

The Epic voyage had the group and I marveling at the bloat of hippos taking a dip in the cool Kazinga Waters.

Shortly after the hippos, the majestic elephants graced our view. As they took turns to sling mad all over their bodies using their long, flexible trunks.

When we made it to the other end, the experience was worthy the pay. 

In retrospection, the boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel was one of a kind.

After the boat cruise, the group and I turned back and headed for "Simba Safari Camp for dinner. Along the channel tracks, all eyes were glued to the outside in hopes of sighting the over advertised "Tree Climbing Lions", the prize possessions of Queen Elizabeth National Park.

But had no luck that evening... 

I hoped it would be next on the trail...

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Through Kabatoro Gate On A Crater Lakes Tour, Queen Elizabeth National Park: Day 7 Of My 11 Day Ugandan Tour

The remnants of the violent volcanic activity at Queen Elizabeth National park, were astonishing.

Ferocious volcanic eruptions, some 8000 - 10,000 years ago, released massive amounts of ashes widely far from their vents; creating basin-like features referred to as "Craters."

Through Kabatoro gate, on a 27 kilometer drive to the Queen's Pavilion, was scattered 72 huge craters. Located in the north western region of Queen Elizabeth N.P, the gate was the starting point to the crater lakes tour.

The 3 hour drive exposed the group and I to the 3 main crater fields at Queen Elizabeth N.P, which were;

Katwe Explosion Craters:

These were in the northern part of the "Mweya Peninsula" with lake Katwe being the main one.

Lake Katwe, of approximately 3,270 feet depth, was a hub for a monolithic salt mining operation due to its saline waters.

During the dry seasons, evaporation led to the concentration of the salt solution forming salt rocks which were collected, filtered and made into "Table salt." From Pan-like compartments built on the edge of the lake.

The salt extraction process was spectacular to observe, some miners tirelessly cracking the sodium chloride rocks and others carrying sacks of the shattered rocks.

This experience was greatly amplified by the panorama of the flocks of the flame-colored, long legged flamingos, sorting out algae at the lake.

There were some wide mouth opening, hairless bodied and large sized hippos too.

Bunyaruguru Crater Field:

Recognized by the worldwide Volcano discovery, this was the next go to.

Also called the "Kichwamba Crater field", this area had up to 20 craters containing both saline and fresh waters.

They were located on the western side of Queen Elizabeth N.P in the Kichwamba escarpment of the western Rift valley. Most of these were filled with thickets of small trees and bushy grasslands, except for Lake Nkugute that was attractively filled with water and easily spotted if traveling along the Kasese - Mbarara highway.

Ndali-Kasenda Crater Field:

A foot trail was encouraged at this crater field. It was a 10 kilometre long stretch of closely packed craters.

A quick swim was discouraged as most of these craters contained toxic greenish waters and emitted smelly sulphuric fumes, which emanated from beneath.

Lakes like Nkuruba, Lyantonde, Nyabikere, among others constituted the crater field.

This mid morning tour climaxed at the Queen's Pavilion, a small thatched hut with a magnificent view of most the park's land.

Brunch was served...

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Bird Watching at Katunguru Bridge Area In Queen Elizabeth National Park: Uganda Tour, Day 7

Katunguru bridge, connecting Lakes Edward and George on the Kazinga channel, the area below the bridge at Queen Elizabeth National park was a heavily swampy zone, and a stronghold of bird life.

Numerous bird species accorded this papyrus swamp their attention, with inhabitancy flight after flight. To seek sanctuary, countless birds flocked the swamp and nested.

They had no technology, just their ant-like capacity for hard work; their wings, spectacular eye sight and strong beaks.

How many sticks and straws they collected can never be calculated.

By 7 O'clock in the morning, I was already awake and having breakfast at Simba Safari camp. Readying myself for the morning itinerary, which comprised of a birding safari at the birds' renowned habitat in Queen Elizabeth N.P; the Katunguru area.

My group mates and I were psyched...

The ranger came, the others and I took up seats on the tour truck, and drove to the swamp.

Along the Katunguru channel tracks, lots of natural vegetation, of savannah grasslands and indigenous trees graced our views.

The surreal-ness of the area, when we finally got there, took my breath way. The papyrus and shrub dominated wetland housed innumerable birds and added to my human wonder of nature.

These included:

The Gull-billed tern: with a distinctive short, thick gull-like bill, broad wings and long legs. A whitish grey underparts and a black cap; black legs and bill.

The pink-backed Pelican: that had a whitish grey plumage and a pinkish hue on the back, as the name suggested; swallowing a fish.

The papyrus Gonolek: a medium sized bush-shrike with a dull yellow crown; the upper parts, wings, tail and head black, apart from a broad white bar on the wings. A crimson breast and upper belly while the lower belly whitish.

I could only hope it was scouting for insects like the beetles and flies, or snails as it singly lurked among the papyrus.

Many, many more bird species could be sighted.

The Katunguru bridge area was perfect for the birding safari experience; 

The day's trail had just started...

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An Evening game drive through the Kisenyi Plains at Queen Elizabeth National Park: Day 6 Of My 11 Day Tour Of Uganda

An hour and half at Simba Safari Camp, after my arrival, was perfect rest; more so the heavy brunch I feasted on.

I settled in and decompressed perfectly well, on the comfy seats in the lounge area and was still posted when someone started calling out to the guests.

It was game drive time;

"It's time, sir." Said a deep voice. I stood up, slid on my green travel backpack and headed to the gathering of 3 outside.

The man had an army green uniform on;

"It's time for the evening game drive." Said the green clad game ranger.

"What's in store for us! I'm so pumped." Said one of the group members, now excited and organising herself.

"It's going to be a 2-3 hour drive through the Kasenyi plains, where we'll get a chance to see some of the wild life that we have."

"Sort of an orientation to Queen Elizabeth national park, so come on let's head out." Replied the officer.

"Are we all set, shall we!" The officer climbed abode the driver's seat of the 8-seater, four-wheel drive tour truck, and we all followed tout de suite.

Groups of 6 maximum are allowed, and there were at that time only 4 members. I made the fifth, but the number would go back to 4 the following day when one of us fell sick.

Kasenyi plains were a vast Savannah; perfect setting for a classic African Safari experience.

I descried some medium-sized black warthogs; with large heads adorned with a pair tusks each, a mane down the spine, sparse hairs covered their bodies and long tails that ended with tufts of hair, grazing on grasses and roots with their front feet bent backwards.

8 minutes, on constantly spinning wheels, a herd of Uganda kobs came in view. These were reddish brown in colour and sturdily built.

"Only the males have the lyre-shaped horns." Said the officer as he pointed out to the herd. 

They had a white patch on their throats, white muzzles, eye rings and  inner ears. The belly and inside of the legs also white, while the front legs were black. They calmed fed on grasses and reeds.

Yet so unbothered by their large numbers were a pair of Guinea fowls as they skittered through the grasslands; and so neatly packed were their grey spotted plumage.

These seed and sometimes insect eating had featherless heads and majestically foraged within the herds dung and the surrounding understory.

There were approximately 12 dark grey elephants in a herd that we came across after about 30 minute drive away from the kobs.

The small herd of these enormous elephants had 2 calves a few months old with them. 

The elephants had gigantic ears and concave backs, long trunks, massive legs and huge tusks; wrinkled skin and slopping abdomen.

Most used their trunks to grasp grass from the ground and bring it to their mouths.

About 2 and half hours driving through the Kasenyi plains, Queen Elizabeth national park had made a memorable first impression.

More of her jewels were to lust for on this Afro foot trail...

When the drive time was up, we drove back to Simba Safari Camp and called it a day. 

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Traveling to Queen Elizabeth National Park, Lodging At Simba Safari Camp: Day 6 Of My 11 Day Tour Of Uganda

There was no reason to end the trail at that, because I had experienced forest walks, Chimpanzee tracking and bird watching, but Uganda, and Africa at large, still had more, a lot more to offer.

The third time I took a bus, the Link Bus, from Fort Portal City heading to Kasese District, it was a fair experience compared to the first two times, mostly due to the shortness of the trip.

Kasese town, located North of Lake George in western region of Uganda, was only 1 hour and a minute away; a distance of approximately 93 kilometers.

On arrival to Kasese town, at the Bus terminal I followed a familiar routine;  I collected my travel bags from the Bus' luggage cabin, grabbed a quick refreshment juice from the traders and searched for the fastest mode of transport from the Town to Queen Elizabeth National Park.

I met a special hire taxi operator at their stage on one of the commercial streets in Kasese town, negotiated the transport fares and took the drive.

37 minutes later, I was at Simba Safari Camp which would go on to be my abode for the next couple of days while traversing Queen Elizabeth national park.

The general presumption was that I would relive the moments I had while I lodged at the Kyaninga lodge; I was wrong!

None of the reviews that I perused through, had clearly expressed the beauty of "Simba Safari Camp"

At the camp, one side faced the scenic crater lakes and plains of Queen Elizabeth national park while the other, the peaks of the Rwenzori mountain ranges stood out against the skyline.

Circling around the gorgeous terrain, there was an extensive lounge, a restaurant serving excellent continental dishes and a well stocked bar.

When I finally came around to making conversation, after several minutes of gaping at the surrounding beauty, one of the staff invited me to plant a tree that would be nourished and, would carry my name forever.

This was mainly done for conservation purposes and to foster a nature loving mentality in the guests.

"We have several rooms available." Said the beautiful lady at the reception when I approached the desk.

Going through the brochure, guest accommodation comprised of double rooms, all ensuite.

Below beyond the first segment, dormitory rooms where listed, of 3, 5 and 10 occupance; with double decker beds and all with shared bathroom facilities.

Traveling on a budget, I moved in for a 3 occupant dormitory room and adjacent to the room, was a common shower and toilet block.

The room had a whitish grey wall fan, wood brown lounge seat, a veranda with canvas seats and a clothing rack. A mosquito net fitted bed.

At Simba Safari camp, the 3-star restaurant was to offer delicious and affordable meals with open air rest. The modern well stocked bar offered refreshment of cold sodas and beer.

A tea wake up call was arranged between the restaurant staff and I, where a cup would be served at my veranda every morning throughout my stay at the camp, which would be a splendid start to my morning drives.

This was the closest lodge in to Queen Elizabeth national park's jewels...

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